Foot type measuring


脚型测量

世上没有完全相同的两只脚,只有尽可能全面的获得详尽而精确的脚型信息后,工匠们才能做出舒适合脚的鞋子。经验丰富的工匠会根据客人的脚部测量数据制作鞋楦,通过反复的调整来适应每位顾客足部的压力点和肌肉结构。在客户处于不同姿势时,分别量取脚的长度宽度 高度和围度。这是制作鞋楦的基础,完美的鞋楦将在鞋子的制作过程中取代双脚,帮助鞋履最终精致呈现。




There are no two identical feet, and only when detailed and accurate foot shape information is available as fully as possible can craftsmen make shoes that fit comfortably. Experienced artisans make lasts based on measurements of the customer's foot, adjusting them repeatedly to fit the pressure points and muscle structure of each customer's foot. When the customer is in different positions, measure the length, width, height and circumference of the foot respectively. This is the basis for last making. The perfect last will replace the feet in the process of shoe making and help the shoes to present themselves in a delicate way.
Last is the conceptualized wooden copy of the human foot. One of its missions is to serve as a substitute for the foot in the process of shoe making. In addition to the function of shaping planar leather into a three-dimensional shape, shoe last reflects the fashion trend and aesthetic needs of the era. Last is made according to the size of the measured foot, which determines the internal size and external shape of the shoe. A perfect last is the prerequisite for creating high-quality handmade shoes.
鞋楦是人脚的概念化木质复制,使命之一就是在制鞋过程中作为脚的替代品。鞋楦除了能将平面皮革塑造成立体形状的功能外,更反映所处时代的时尚潮流和审美需求。鞋楦是按照所测量的脚的尺寸制作的,决定了鞋子内在的尺寸和外在形状,完美的鞋楦是打造手工鞋精品的前提条件。

Last production


鞋楦制作

高品质的产品以及多元化的营销,离不开高层次高素质的管理团队和规范化的庞大的营销网络,公司在国内设立了十多家区域营销中心和三十多个办事处,并在各地建立品牌形象店和专柜,赢得了各地客户和广大消费者的信赖。产品畅销国内外同时打开了韩国、日本、俄罗斯、欧美等多个国家的女鞋市场,并成为日本三菱、韩国广安社等国外知名企业的指定加工厂。


 High-quality products and diversified marketing are inseparable from high-level and high-quality management team and large standardized marketing network. The company has set up more than 10 regional marketing centers and more than 30 offices in China, and established brand image stores and special cabinets in various places, which has won the trust of customers and consumers everywhere. 
                        

Metric Analysis


量脚分析

This step requires the designer to design the sketch of the shoe style according to the customer's customized requirements. Through continuous modification, the three-dimensional effect of the shoe style can be directly painted on the last, including every detail of the style. The finished three-dimensional effect design scheme will become an important basis for leather cutting.
这一步骤需要设计师根据顾客的定制需求设计出鞋款样式的草图,通过不断的修改,最终在鞋楦上直接描画出鞋款的立体效果,包括款式的每一个细节部分。所完成的立体效果设计方案会成为裁剪皮料时的重要依据。

Design of shoe


设计鞋款

The instep cut


鞋面裁剪

首先将鞋款的立体效果图转化成纸样,再通过纸样来裁剪皮革,并在皮革上制作出花型。这一过程需要十分小心,不能出现错误,否则一切都要重来。
First of all, the three-dimensional effect diagram of the shoe will be converted into paper pattern, and then cut the leather through paper pattern, and make a pattern on the leather. This process needs to be very careful not to make mistakes, otherwise everything will have to start all over again.
高品质的产品以及多元化的营销,离不开高层次高素质的管理团队和规范化的庞大的营销网络,公司在国内设立了十多家区域营销中心和三十多个办事处,并在各地建立品牌形象店和专柜,赢得了各地客户和广大消费者的信赖。产品畅销国内外同时打开了韩国、日本、俄罗斯、欧美等多个国家的女鞋市场,并成为日本三菱、韩国广安社等国外知名企业的指定加工厂。


 High-quality products and diversified marketing are inseparable from high-level and high-quality management team and large standardized marketing network. The company has set up more than 10 regional marketing centers and more than 30 offices in China, and established brand image stores and special cabinets in various places, which has won the trust of customers and consumers everywhere. 
                        

Metric Analysis


量脚分析

Cut the upper and various parts of the vamp, the first to thin, combination and other early finishing, and then sew it up. During the sewing process, there are strict requirements on the thickness, width and spacing of each component combination. After the vamp is finished, the vamp needs to be provided with an inner layer. The inner layer requires the use of soft leather that has been specially tanned. Only in this way can the air permeability and comfort of the feet of the customers be guaranteed.
裁切好的鞋面及各个部位,先要进行削薄、组合等前期整理,再将其缝合起来。缝制过程中,对各部件组合的厚度、宽度、间距等都有严格的要求。鞋面制作完成后,需要为鞋面配置里层。里层需要使用经过特殊鞣制加工的软皮。这样才能保证顾客穿着时脚面的透气性与舒适度。

Uppers sewing


鞋面缝制

Material Opening


绷楦定型

加完中底之后把刚刚缝制好的皮革鞋面套在鞋楦上,必须做到完美贴合。在套上鞋面之前需要先在鞋头与鞋跟处垫上硬质内衬,这一步骤是为了让软趴趴的鞋面变得硬挺、有型。传统的做法应该是把植鞣打湿之后塑型再晾干,整个过程需要大概一天的时间。然后用钳子夹住鞋面下方的边缘部位往鞋底拉扯,另一只手配合,之后再用鞋钉把鞋面边缘固定在中底和鞋楦上,这样就可以很好的配合到顾客脚步的尺寸。这一过程也就是所谓的“绷楦”。
After adding the finished sole, the newly stitched leather upper is covered on the last and must be perfectly fitted. Before you put on the vamp, you need to put a hard liner on the toe and the heel. This step is to make the soft vamp stiff and stylish. The traditional method is to wet the plant and shape it before drying it, a process that takes about a day. Then use pliers to grip the lower edge of the vamp and pull on the sole, with the other hand to cooperate, and then use the tacks to fix the edge of the vamp on the middle sole and last, so as to match the size of the customer's foot. This process is also known as a 'stretch last'.
高品质的产品以及多元化的营销,离不开高层次高素质的管理团队和规范化的庞大的营销网络,公司在国内设立了十多家区域营销中心和三十多个办事处,并在各地建立品牌形象店和专柜,赢得了各地客户和广大消费者的信赖。产品畅销国内外同时打开了韩国、日本、俄罗斯、欧美等多个国家的女鞋市场,并成为日本三菱、韩国广安社等国外知名企业的指定加工厂。


 High-quality products and diversified marketing are inseparable from high-level and high-quality management team and large standardized marketing network. The company has set up more than 10 regional marketing centers and more than 30 offices in China, and established brand image stores and special cabinets in various places, which has won the trust of customers and consumers everywhere. 
                        

Metric Analysis


量脚分析

The 1:1 sample shoes made from the last can provide a good sense of comfort. The craftsman will focus on the control and adjustment of the stress point of the foot, striving to achieve a perfect balance of comfort and aesthetics between the outside and the inside. Generally, every pair of sample shoes cannot escape the fate of "black and blue", because the professional craftsman will cut the upper while the customer tries on the shoes, so as to observe the situation inside the shoes more directly, so as to make adjustments in time to maximize the comfort of wearing.
根据鞋楦制作出的1:1试穿样鞋可以很好的进行舒适度感知。工匠将会着眼于足部受力点的把控和调整,力求达到外部和内部舒适度和美观的完美平衡。通常每双样鞋都逃脱不了“遍体鳞伤”的命运,因为专业的工匠会在客人试穿的同时划开鞋面,从而能更直观的观察到鞋内的试穿情况,以便及时做出调整,将穿着舒适度最大化。

Sample shoes to try on


样鞋试穿

Stitched welt


缝合沿条

沿条结构是固特异工艺最为精彩之处,皮制的沿条顺着鞋底边缘与鞋面相缝合,对整个鞋子的结构起到了很好的稳定作用。缝制所用的线是经过特殊打蜡处理的,保证了鞋子的耐穿度。

The strip structure is the most wonderful part of Goodyear's technology. The leather strip sutures along the edge of the sole and the vamp, stabilizing the whole shoe structure. The thread is specially waxed to ensure the durability of the shoes.
高品质的产品以及多元化的营销,离不开高层次高素质的管理团队和规范化的庞大的营销网络,公司在国内设立了十多家区域营销中心和三十多个办事处,并在各地建立品牌形象店和专柜,赢得了各地客户和广大消费者的信赖。产品畅销国内外同时打开了韩国、日本、俄罗斯、欧美等多个国家的女鞋市场,并成为日本三菱、韩国广安社等国外知名企业的指定加工厂。


 High-quality products and diversified marketing are inseparable from high-level and high-quality management team and large standardized marketing network. The company has set up more than 10 regional marketing centers and more than 30 offices in China, and established brand image stores and special cabinets in various places, which has won the trust of customers and consumers everywhere. 
                        

Metric Analysis


量脚分析

After the cork finishes, the outsole of the leather shoe is stitched with the edge. After the sole is stitched, the bottom edge is polished to smooth and the heel is fitted. Several layers of leather heel are nailed to the heel to create a hollow layer to soften the impact of walking. Then install a rubber layer on the back of the heel to reduce wear.
软木整理平整后,将皮制的鞋大底与沿条缝合,鞋底缝制完成后,需要通过削边打磨将底边打磨到平顺光滑,并装上鞋跟。鞋跟钉上若干层皮质后跟,让中间形成中空层,以减缓行走时后跟受到的冲击力。之后在鞋跟后部安装橡胶层,这样可以减轻后跟被磨损的程度。

Stitching sole


缝合大底

Finishing touches


整理润色

鞋履制作的后期,主要是对整体细节做最后的检查和润色。同时,尊客定制精湛的古法擦色工艺更是为皮鞋注入了充满色彩与活力的灵魂,使其更加完美。
In the later stage of shoe production, it is the final check and touch up of the overall details. At the same time, Corthay's exquisite ancient polishing technology is for the leather shoes into the soul full of color and vitality, making it more perfect.
高品质的产品以及多元化的营销,离不开高层次高素质的管理团队和规范化的庞大的营销网络,公司在国内设立了十多家区域营销中心和三十多个办事处,并在各地建立品牌形象店和专柜,赢得了各地客户和广大消费者的信赖。产品畅销国内外同时打开了韩国、日本、俄罗斯、欧美等多个国家的女鞋市场,并成为日本三菱、韩国广安社等国外知名企业的指定加工厂。


 High-quality products and diversified marketing are inseparable from high-level and high-quality management team and large standardized marketing network. The company has set up more than 10 regional marketing centers and more than 30 offices in China, and established brand image stores and special cabinets in various places, which has won the trust of customers and consumers everywhere. 
                        

Metric Analysis


量脚分析

After the time of carving and baptism, a top handmade customized "art" cocoon into a butterfly. It is the embodiment of exquisite, but also the precipitation of ingenuity, born with extraordinary, with confidence and grace to meet the belongs to its gentleman's journey.
历经时间的雕琢与洗礼,一件顶级手工定制“艺术品”化茧成蝶。它是精湛的体现,更是匠心的沉淀,生而不凡,携自信与优雅迎接属于它的绅士之旅。

The cocoon into a butterfly


化茧成蝶